St. Rocco's Bakery

4 St. Rocco Place Glen Cove, New York 516-427-5333

At St. Rocco's Bakery in Glen Cove, wood-fired

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

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Type: Shopping, Specialty, Bakery-pastry shop, Pizza Description:

It was the bread at St. Rocco's Bakery in Glen Cove that first caught our attention. In October 2012, John and Lisa Sacchetta resurrected the landmark bakery established in 1940. (They had purchased it in 2007, but two fires delayed the reopening.) The Sacchettas brought back the crusty, rustic loaves St. Rocco was famous for, and also branched into sweets with an immense range of cakes, pies, tarts, pastries and cookies. They started making fresh sandwiches with St. Rocco's fine loaves and rolls.

But the Sacchettas also installed a wood-burning pizza oven. For the first nine months, it got fired up every Thursday, when Joe Romeo took the day off from his usual pizza gig at Phil's II in Massapequa Park. In July, Romeo joined St. Rocco full-time, and now every day, from noon to 7 p.m., you can take out pizza, or eat it at a wrought-iron table inside the bakery or out on the patio.

The Margherita ($12) is a classic, with a spare tomato-mozzarella-basil topping. The crust is crisper and less puffy around the edges than a true pizza Napolitana. (For good reason: It's been my experience that most Americans don't like the droopy, doughy pie that they find in Naples.)

The Giulio ($19) does triple duty as pizza, antipasto and salad: First, Romeo makes a white pie with mozzarella and pecorino. When it comes out of the oven, he tops it with an olive oil- dressed arugula salad, imported prosciutto and a balsamic drizzle.

My favorite of Romeo's pies is the breakfast pizza ($14). When it is about half baked, he pulls it out of the oven and cracks two eggs onto it, and puts it back so the crust starts to blister, the cheese becomes molten and the eggs are perfectly sunny-side up.

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St. Rocco's Bakery 4 St. Rocco Place, Glen Cove

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