The Metropolitan Bistro

39 Roslyn Avenue Sea Cliff, NY 516-801-4500

The Metropolitan Bistro is located at 39 Roslyn

(Credit: Brittany Wait)

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Critic rating: 2

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Type: New American Price range: $$$ (Expensive) Description:

Owned by William Long (a partner at The Metropolitan, a catering house in Glen Cove) and his wife Anita, who designed the renovated space, with chef James Lotker, who also comes from The Metropolitan. The New American menu includes  pan-seared Chatham cod with spinach and lemongrass beurre blanc and roast LI duck with cashews and ginger orange gastrique. A burger? For sure. Wood-grilled, at that. Entrees are priced from $17 to $26.

Hours: Open every day for dinner, from 5 p.m. Reservations recommended on weekends. Ambience: Good Service: Good Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: Accepted
The strip steak is served under a shower

The strip steak is served under a shower of crisp ribbons of parsnip at The Metropolitan Bistro in Sea Cliff. (Dec. 31, 2010) (Credit: Craig Ruttle)

2

The noise you hear is coming from The Metropolitan Bistro. The energized, informal eatery took over the spot vacated by Tupelo Honey, and the fun has just begun.

This spirited place is an offspring of The Metropolitan, the handsome catering facility in Glen Cove. Executive chef James Lotker's inviting menu is a one-sheet affair, New American with some Mediterranean accents. You'll immediately want to order everything.

But you can't. If you're unable to resist picking a dish before placing your full order, your weekend waitress may veto the spontaneous request. Weekdays, service is more accommodating. One weekend, food arrived at a pace to break speed limits. On a weekday, timing was ideal. Maybe they'll figure it out soon.

Meantime, look around. You'll spot only a section of the whimsical, undulating tile work that sweetened the look of Tupelo Honey. The beehive-dome oven remains, tile-free but definitely working.

THE BEST

Accordingly, select a white pizza. The pizza offerings change daily, but the ricotta-starring, wood-burning beauty deserves permanent status. Pair it with the cedar-planked, roasted vegetables, a smoky platter that comes with a little bucket of mayo. Or with the platter of baba ghanoush, hummus, tomato salad and grilled pita triangles. Long Island fish chowder, white as winter, should comfortably fortify you for any snowstorm. Go casual with a fine cheeseburger capped with grilled red onion and manchego; or formal, with the juicy strip steak under a shower of crisp ribbons of parsnip. The tender, wood-roasted pork chop glistening from a cider reduction and on caramelized apples is a natural. Leading the seafood: pan-seared Chatham cod finished in a lemongrass-infused beurre blanc; and a special of snowy black bass with corn succotash. Bourbon-pecan pie fits in.

THE REST

Nearly blackened crispy shrimp cocktail. Overdone crepe with cubed root vegetables, shredded short rib and Stilton. Bland lentil and tabbouleh salads; underseasoned pappardelle with grilled eggplant; routine apple crisp and lemon tart.

BOTTOM LINE

Winter warmer.

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Where

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The Metropolitan Bistro 39 Roslyn Avenue, Sea Cliff

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