The Fish Store in Bayport

Crawfish salad is served in a wrap at

Crawfish salad is served in a wrap at The Fish Store in Bayport. (Dec. 12, 2010) (Credit: Photo by Doug Young)

Location info

The Fish Store in Bayport is located on

836 Montauk Hwy Bayport, NY 11705-1615

The Fish Store description Small restaurant and fresh seafood market. ... More »

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The Fish Store in Bayport is located on The Fish Store

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The concept of a restaurant within a fish store has become quite the vogue on Long Island. New to the swim is The Fish Store, a long-standing Bayport resource for fresh fish and seafood.

The dining room add-on exemplifies nautical good taste, with its white wainscoting and seafaring photographs. Service is unerringly friendly, although the kitchen can be slow. Inconsistent, too.

GOOD CATCH

Satisfying sandwiches and wraps reign at lunch, an optimal time to go. The Fish Store's crawfish salad sandwich is, to me, the equal of a good lobster roll and, at $6.99, one of the year's better bargains. Another sandwich showcases blackened Cajun catfish that's glistening and spicy. A slab of salmon is chargrilled to a nice smokiness, served on a roll with lettuce and tomato. Fried shrimp are crunchy, clean-tasting.

I like the rich lobster bisque and the herbal New England clam chowder. The soup du jour, chipotle tomato, has plenty of zing.

One meal kicks off with an appetizer of fried calamari, tender little ringlets with a spunky marinara dipping sauce. L.I. South Shore clams steamed in garlic wine sauce couldn't be fresher; I use bread to sop up the flavorsome sauce.

So good, a peppercorn crusted tuna steak that comes out rare, as ordered, plated with commendable mashed potatoes and creamed spinach.

THROW IT BACK

Manhattan clam chowder is insipid, blue claw crab cakes (topped with sherry cream sauce) a bit bland and bready. Lovely pan-seared sea scallops in a scampi-style sauce surround woefully overcooked pasta. And then there's linguine with clam sauce; the pasta is done to mush, drowned in an overflow of sauce. Bland poached salmon drizzled with a cloying honey-horseradish sauce is plated atop a medley of vegetables straight from the freezer.

Chewy rice mars what could have been creamy and appealing rice pudding.

BOTTOM LINE

Fish carefully and simply and you can eat well.

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