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TOP PICK -- THE PLAZA CAFE, Southampton: Douglas
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TOP PICK -- THE PLAZA CAFE, Southampton: Douglas Gulija retooled his stellar seafood restaurant last year, making the style and look a bit more casual and the food even more liberated. You'll still find the excellent lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie with a chive-potato crust; and the outstanding swordfish & chop; but consider grilled Montauk swordfish atop Italian sausage meat, peas and pea greens in a carrot-chive broth. Or tender calamari on hummus with piquillo peppers and Kalamata olives. Maybe butter-poached lobster-and-corn chowder. And grilled wild striped bass in local seafood chowder with lobster aioli. Terrific desserts, too.(Credit: Doug Young)

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The 10 best seafood restaurants on Long Island

Long Island casts a wide net, but the number of exceptional seafood restaurants is surprisingly small. They're the antidotes to the uniformly gilded fried platters and universally overcooked broiled ones; the perpetual poorly stuffed flounder and the inevitable cement-closed baked clams. Don't get us started about what's criminally called "bouillabaisse." In a major seafooder, freshness is all. Here are Newsday's choices for the 10 best. The favorite: The Plaza Café in Southampton.