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Southern Spice

Published: January 24, 2012 6:02 PM
By JOAN REMINICK  joan.reminick@newsday.com

Photo credit: Yana Paskova | Goat brain masala at Southern Spice. (Jan. 14, 2012)

The wheel of fortune landed locally when Sridhar Rathinam relocated his Southern Indian restaurant from Flushing to New Hyde Park. Rathinam's regional Chettinad cookery, as fiery as it is nuanced, can spark even the most sophisticated palate.

I feel myself glowing after a bowl of Rathinam's white-hot tamarind peppercorn soup; an appetizer of lamb chops detonates a slow, delectable burn. Next,...