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Sake Asian

76 Rte. 109 West Babylon, NY 631-620-3888

Sake Asian restaurant, located in West Babylon. (July

(Credit: Yana Paskova )

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Type: Asian, Japanese, Sushi, Thai Price range: $$ (Moderate) Description:

Sake Asian in West Babylon aims to please with a large sushi bar, as well as comfortable booths and tables. The servers are hospitable, the dinner prices can't be beat, and the menu is filled to the brim. Whether you're looking for Chinese, Japanese, or Thai cuisine, know that Sake Asian has all three. Add in a decor that blends bling and neutral, and Sake Asian is off to a very good start. 

Hours: Lunch, Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner, Monday to Thursday 4:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4:30 to 10:30 p.m., Sunday noon to 10 p.m. Ambience: Very Good Service: Very Good Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible.
The duck roll is reminiscent of a Peking

The duck roll is reminiscent of a Peking duck dish at Sake Asian restaurant in West Babylon. (July 20, 2013) (Credit: Yana Paskova )

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Into the former West Babylon digs of Singha Thai comes Sake Asian, bringing with it a much-needed renovation. A neutral color palette plays well against colorful murals and blingy fixtures. A large sushi bar, comfortable booths and tables add to the appeal. So, too, do hospitable servers. Discounted dinner prices -- 30 percent off sushi bar items, for example -- make the place eminently affordable. But why make customers do the math?

Especially when they have to navigate a menu that reaches all over the map. Know beforehand: The forte is Chinese, with Japanese coming in second and Thai trailing behind.

One meal begins with a vegetable spring roll that surpasses expectations with its delicacy and vibrancy. Yet tom yum soup, while spicy, lacks the characteristic Thai hot and sour notes. In contrast, the sake house soup -- basically Chinese hot and sour -- scores highly.

Peking duck comes to mind with the first bite of the well-wrought duck roll. And rockies shrimp (or rock shrimp tempura) is a creditable rendition, featuring batter-fried shellfish drizzled with spicy mayo.

Things can get a bit overwrought at the sushi bar. The cylindrical triple delight stars tuna and salmon tartare topped with -- and overwhelmed by -- a neon green mélange of olive oil and cilantro. And a sushi sandwich -- big triangles of rice stuffed with spicy tuna, spicy salmon, mango sauce and more -- doesn't quite come together. But yellowtail with jalapeño and orange seviche sauce works. So, too, an entree chirashi platter of fresh finfish plus the obligatory surimi and cooked shrimp alongside a cylinder of seasoned rice.

A mustard-hued main dish Thai red curry with scallops doesn't deliver the characteristic Thai coconut flavor. And a too-sweet caramelized soy Penang sauce nearly drowns strips of crisp red snapper. Pad Thai with chicken tastes more Chinese than Thai. But chicken with Szechuan peppercorns is a fiery knockout -- underscoring once more the kitchen's expertise with Chinese fare.

Dinner ends with a big ball of fried ice cream. It's surprisingly good, its crust cakelike beneath a greaseless, lightly crisped exterior.

More evidence of promise at this amiable newcomer.