Phayathai's tom kha gai -- chicken coconut soup -- has a sly electric undercurrent all its own. (Nov. 10, 2012) (Credit: Alessandro Vecchi)
appears to blend into the nondescript Lake Ronkonkoma strip mall it's tucked into. What defines the restaurant turns out to be neither its location nor minimalist decor. Overheard at the cashier's station: A guy picking up a takeout order says to the waiter behind the counter, "Let me work in your kitchen. No need to pay me; I just want to know how to make food like this."...
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