Nader's Food on the Run
217 New York Ave. Huntington, NY 631-423-6300
Few frills, small tabs and a menu that's mostly seafood in Huntington, from the chef-owner of the nearby Bravo! Nader.
It's a little past 7 p.m. and the sun continues to beat down on Huntington. Off the parking lot of Nader's Fish on the Run, tall pine trees offer shade to some picnic tables. A member of our foursome commandeers one as the rest go inside to order at the counter.
Nader Gebrin, chef-owner of the nearby Bravo! Nader, offers a menu that's mostly (but not entirely) about seafood. Few frills, small tabs.
Although the weather is warm, a bowl of rich lobster bisque studded with pieces of shellfish is welcome. So, too, is the red Huntington clam chowder, briny and loaded with clams. I find slow-cooked barbecue pork ribs tender but a bit too saucy.
The baked crab cakes on my pal's sandwich are good, if a trifle dense. It pays to know beforehand that unless you request otherwise, that sandwich will come slathered with a pungent wasabi tartar sauce (not mentioned in the menu description).
Shrimp with broccoli in garlic sauce over whole-wheat pasta turns out light and flavorsome. The fresh and sprightly seafood salad (shrimp, scallops and calamari in a lemony vinaigrette over chopped lettuce) is more of an appetizer than a main course. But I have lots to eat with a whole branzino, crisp skin overlaying delicate fish, served with brown rice and steamed vegetables -- a bargain at $15.95.
The sky darkens behind the pines. A mother tells her little girl to be careful of the cars that maneuver in and out of the cramped parking lot. As we clear our foil and Styrofoam plates, a family stands by, waiting to take over the table.