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The recently refreshed Matteo's in Roslyn, open since
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The recently refreshed Matteo's in Roslyn, open since 1992 but overseen by new owners since 2008, has a dining room that's gone from drab to fab and a chef, Anthony Martarana, who has kept much of the family-style Italian menu but added New American and modern Italian dishes. Recommended: Nonna's ragu, featuring hunks of short rib, meatballs and sausage (pictured); clams oreganata; grilled octopus with white beans and tomato; whole branzino; Shrimp Wendy, shrimp sauteed with green beans; Chicken Ultimate, lightly fried cutlets in a lemony sauce topped with mozzarella and cherry peppers.(Credit: Alessandro Vecchi)

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The latest Fine Dining reviews from critic Peter M. Gianotti.