La Volpe Ristorante
611 Montauk Hwy. Center Moriches, NY 631-874-3819
A trip to Center Moriches may be in order for seekers of authentic Italian fare in a setting that's sophisticated yet informal. Start with the fine tavollacio del salumiere (Italian meats and cheeses) or the perfect pan-seared artichoke hearts over arugula. Bucatini chi sardi (long tubular pasta with sardines, fennel, pignioli, peas, tomato sauce and bread crumbs) offers a piquant taste of Sicily; fork-tender chicken Francese comes in a glossy, refined lemon butter sauce. The wine list shows as much forethought as the food.


