La Novella

Here's the short review: stop by La Novella.

The eatery is on the site that for years housed Mario's of East Meadow. The previous occupant definitely is history. Owner Michael Cobi, who is often in the kitchen, presides over a dining room that has been updated and altered.

Just as the cuisine has been lightened up, so has the style. It remains a rather modest-looking establishment, inside and out. The stage is pleasant, with pine wainscoting, bentwood chairs and easygoing artwork on the walls. The background sound goes from Martin and Prima to Bocelli most evenings to live music on others.

But the show at La Novella, which opened originally as Tinello, is on the plate.

Sample the artfully arranged, tender grilled calamari, finished with a dab of basil-driven pesto and ripe, chopped tomatoes. Or a delicately seasoned, big-hearted stuffed artichoke.

Traditionalists will revel in the uncommonly flavorful eggplant rollatine, stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella. Other familiar openers such as baked clams oreganata, stuffed mushrooms and roasted peppers with anchovies also are recommended.

You'll enjoy the cold antipasto plate, with fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, salami, peppers hot and sweet, and tomatoes, all of which you'll be tempted to pack heroically inside a wedge of the house's crusty bread.

La Novella offers very good pastas. Consider the fettuccine with smoked salmon and asparagus, in a coral-shaded sauce. Or the perciatelli alla primavera, a springtime number rife with vegetables and a gloss of olive oil that's ideal for summer, too.

Ziti alla Nonna is, of course, a heftier choice, but just as appealing in its homey way, with red sauce, eggplant and ricotta. The kitchen is equally at ease with cream sauces, whether your alla panna is with fettuccine or cheese tortellini. Gnocchi in a vivid Gorgonzola sauce guarantees bread-dipping.

The broiled veal chop, trimmed so the bone extends like a prow, is thick and juicy, under a mantle of sun-dried tomatoes, porcini and shiitake mushrooms. The velvety filet mignon benefits from a fan of savory mushrooms glistening from balsamic vinegar.

But pork chops with vinegar and peppers are a little resistant. And breast of chicken stuffed with prosciutto, asparagus and mozzarella is very mild competition in this company.

Striped bass sauteed with capers, lemon and garlic is light and terrific. The outstanding whole, grilled snapper, in sizes for one to three diners, and a snowy slab of cod both benefit from an invigorating, neatly balanced dressing that includes white wine, mustard, tomato, chopped peppers, Worcestershire sauce and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Liven things up with a side order of the fried hot peppers. Mellower appetites will gladly go for the sauteed broccoli rabe or escarole.

For dessert, the cannoli are essential. Very fresh, not too sweet, with a diverting accent from orange zest. There's lush tiramisu, creamy cheesecake and a carefully manicured platter of fresh fruit.

During recent visits, service was accommodating.

That's the long review.

-- Peter M. Gianotti