La Marmite

Smooth and confident, La Marmite remains one of Long Island's last dependable, very good continental restaurants. For three decades, it has been a destination for diners who aren't concerned with trends or fads. Service is consistently first-rate. In some ways, the restaurant is an oasis. So, go for the plump, meat crabcakes, with zesty mustard sauce. Or the shrimp cocktail, starring four big ones. The halibut Livornese is a savory choice, along with calf's liver and bacon, steaks and pasta Bolognese. Onion soup gratinee and split-pea soup deliver homey flavor. Refresh yourself with a springtime salad of beets, hearts of palm and asparagus vinaigrette. The dessert cart is an old-fashioned invitation to excess. The gateau Saint-Honore, festooned with custard-filled puffs and loaded with whipped cream, suits the place. Likewise, the colorful fruit tart. It's east to become a regular.