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February 7, 2012

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Kiraku

Published: September 1, 2010 1:56 PM

Photo credit: Newsday / Ana P. Gutierrez | At the sushi bar at Kiraku Restaurant in Glen Head.

The fish in my sushi-sashimi combo was as fresh and well-cut as I'd hoped it would be; the rice was of just the right temperature and texture. But what was a color-changing light cube doing in my shredded daikon, making everything on the platter glow red, then blue then green?

At Kiraku in Glen Head, both the sushi crew and the kitchen chefs are adept enough to stand on their own merits, forgoing...