Horace & Sylvia's Publick House in Babylon

Every downtown on Long Island needs a version of Horace & Sylvia's Publick House.

Maybe the lure of this likable, local hangout is the genial service, or the relaxed style on a weekday night. Could be the Saturday buzz and the live music. Definitely: 18 brews on tap. Order carefully, and you'll have a good meal at fair prices, too.

There's a pretty high comfort level, whether you're a regular or a first-timer, seated at the bar and checking the TVs or in the dining room enjoying the spacious art of guys digging for shellfish. --Peter M. Gianotti