Georgica Restaurant and Lounge

108 Wainscott Stone Rd. (at Montauk Highway) Wainscott, NY 631-537-6255

A dish of seared diver scallops with country

(Credit: Photo by Gordon M. Grant)

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Critic rating: 2.5

User rating:
4
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Type: New American Price range: $$$$ (Very expensive) Description:

Georgica is one "Hell" of a restaurant. Chefs Robert Hesse and Seth Levine, who competed on hyper-cook Gordon Ramsay's "Hell's Kitchen" TV show, heat up dining out a la Hamptons. Last year, Hesse earned three stars for transforming the restaurant at the Inn at Quogue. His and Levine's current stage: the pond-side site vacated by Saracen and, before that, celebrity-fueled Sapore di Mare. Georgica has a summery feel, in white and blue plus the view. The pre-recession tab may cut into your seasonal-rental plans. Loud music induces MTV fatigue. All-smiles service can be erratic. But the food is very good, sometimes better, always fun.

Hours: Dinner every day, from 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday brunch. Ambience: Good Service: Good Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: Steps at entrance and to dining areas.
A dish of seared diver scallops with country

A dish of seared diver scallops with country corn pudding, quail egg, maple-glazed bacon and apple-cider reduction at Georgica Restaurant in Wainscott (Credit: Photo by Gordon M. Grant)

2.5

 Georgica is one "Hell" of a restaurant. Chefs Robert Hesse and Seth Levine, who competed on hyper-cook Gordon Ramsay's "Hell's Kitchen" TV show, heat up dining out a la Hamptons. Last year, Hesse earned three stars for transforming the restaurant at the Inn at Quogue. His and Levine's current stage: the pond-side site vacated by Saracen and, before that, celebrity-fueled Sapore di Mare. Georgica has a summery feel, in white and blue plus the view. The pre-recession tab may cut into your seasonal-rental plans. Loud music induces MTV fatigue. All-smiles service can be erratic. But the food is very good, sometimes better, always fun.

THE BEST

There's a lot going on here, each plate a mini-performance. Seared diver scallops arrive atop country-corn pudding, capped with a sunny-side up quail egg, maple-glazed bacon alongside, apple cider reduction for company. Manchego cream and sage accent ultrarich white-truffle, four-cheese ravioli. Terrific tricolor gazpacho, a three-way palette for yellow, red and green heirloom tomatoes, with swirls of cilantro-shot creme fraiche, refreshes and entertains. Tempura-style shrimp get a Thai-peanut boost. Worth sharing: thin-crust pizzas, from the puritan Margherita, with basil pesto, fresh mozzarella and slices of heirloom red tomato; to the deliriously "truffl'd" pie, with sliced black truffle, truffled manchego cheese, white-truffle "mist" and wild mushrooms.

The full-flavored excess peaks with a thick, excellent strip steak crowned with a lump crabmeat and panko crust and Stilton-horseradish cream. The juicy veal chop, with Cognac-sage jus and crisp pancetta, seems almost demure by comparison; and the white-truffle tagliatelle tossed with wild mushrooms and roasted cherry tomatoes, merely immoderate. The headliner dessert: Hesse's "Kitchen Sink," a brownie-laden extravagance in ice cream inspired in equal parts by Jahn's and "Jurassic Park."

THE REST v Almost-there local bouillabaisse; satisfactory blue crab-and-corn chowder; a Napoleonic salmon Wellington; overdone lobster-three cheese macaroni; room-temperature cinnamon-sugar churros.

THE BOTTOM LINE

"Hell"-raiser. --Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 6/18/09.

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Where

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Georgica Restaurant and Lounge 108 Wainscott Stone Rd., (at Montauk Highway), Wainscott

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