Gastropubbling on Long Island

Pierogies can be heavy, but PeraBell's, served atop

Pierogies can be heavy, but PeraBell's, served atop caramelized onions and filled with airy mashed potatoes, seemed to float above the plate. (Jan. 11, 2013) (Credit: Doug Young)

The gastropub started in Britain more than two decades ago. But you could argue that good food has been served in some pubby places a lot longer. Gastropubs are growing in Nassau and Suffolk. Here are three.

LEFT COAST KITCHEN & COCKTAILS, Merrick

Even teetotalers will enjoy Left Coast Kitchen, where the food is very good and the mood upbeat. Winning dishes include French onion chowder, warm spinach salad, lobster roll, fish tacos, "more long than short rib," and root beer-glazed pork chop.

CANTERBURY'S, Oyster Bay

Plenty of oysters, cooked and raw, are served at Canterbury's. Try them either way. Also, sample the clam-and-corn chowder, Buffalo-style calamari, the seafood towers, Kobe "pigs in a blanket," bison burger, shepherd's pie with lamb, prime rib.

PERABELL FOOD BAR, Patchogue

Eclectic fare goes with the beverages at this popular establishment. Some choices: braised beef short ribs, spiced pork empanadas, fish-and-chips with beer-battered cod, Cobb salad, lobster roll, "thickly cut" BLT, grilled and sliced flatiron steak.

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