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San Marzano in Merrick: Margherita gets beat

I'm usually dismayed by non-Italian elements on my

I'm usually dismayed by non-Italian elements on my pizza but was won over by the caprino pie ($14) at San Marzano in Merrick. Drawing on French and California traditions, this surprisingly harmonious assemblage brings together fontina, goat cheese, caramelized onions, shiitake and button mushrooms, garlic and truffle oil. What really puts it over the top is the excellent crust, tender but toothsome and full of good, wheaty flavor. (Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

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