White clam pizza is on the menu at Red Tomato Pizza in East Norwich on Feb. 24, 2014. (Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)
I almost feel sorry for the pizzeria serving white clam pizza when I walk in the door.
I grew up with the Platonic Ideal of the clam pie, the one at Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, Conn. I still make regular visits. The only worthwhile local iteration I’ve come across since then has been the supernal vongole pie at Westhampton Beach's Pizzetteria Brunetti, made with fresh-shucked...
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