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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Zar Cafe: Jewel box in St. James

Koobideh kebab is one of the Persian dishes

Photo credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

I’ve never been the biggest burger fan, but I’m a sucker for kebabs made from ground meat, such as Turkish kofte kebabs, Pakistani seekh kebabs or Persian koobideh kebabs, which I had for lunch at Zar Café in St. James.

Once the seasoned, ground meat (beef sirloin, in this case) has been pressed along the length of a flat, wide skewer, the chef makes crosswise furrows in it, to give it added...

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