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Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Rockville Centre: Bigelow's lets me down

Bigelow's in Rockville Centre

Photo credit: Lily Hydrangea / Long Island Daily Photo

I love almost everything about Bigelow’s—the whole idea of a clam shack along the distinctly un-maritime Sunrise Highway, that it’s been in business since 1939 and neither the menu nor the decor has changed appreciably since then, that it’s a lean, mean fish-frying machine.

Along Bigelow’s back wall is a breading station, a grill and a couple of fryolators. Facing...

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