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Pepe Rosso 24 in Port Washington: Revisited
Photo credit: Newsday Joan Reminick | Vibrant and fiery penne arrabiata at Pepe Rosso 24 in Port Washington. (December 2012)
It had been close to two years since my last visit to Port Washington's Pepe Rosso 24, a casual pizzeria-ristorante. Back in January of 2011, the place received a three-star rating because its food set it apart from the masses of seemingly similar places on Long Island. How, I wondered, would it fare today?
Right now, I'd give it a strong two and a half stars. The ultra-thin crusted Margherita "personal" pizza ($8.95) was just as crisp and meltingly good as ever. I was impressed — but not totally — by a quinoa salad of fluffy grains, raisins, apples and pecans atop a humdrum mesclun mix, a refreshing lime vinaigrette on the side ($9.95). Minestrone ($5.50), however, was entirely bland.
Among pastas, penne arrabbiata ($11.95) was properly “angry,” thanks to a vibrant chili-fired tomato sauce toned down by pieces of of fresh mozzarella that half-melted into the mix. Fettuccine al tartufo ($14.95) starred sauteed porcini mushroom in a brown Cognac sauce drizzled with white truffle oil. A bit less truffle would have put more of an emphasis on the woodsy mushrooms. While I liked the unconventional chicken Rocco ($14.95) — sauteed boneless breasts topped with sopressata, pignoli nuts and fresh mozzarella in a light tomato basil sauce — the poultry was a bit overcooked.
What won me totally was a warm, flaky-crusted pecan tart ($6.95) served with freshly whipped cream and a garnish of buttery house-baked cookies. So homey, so good.
Pepe Rosso 24 is at 24 Manorhaven Blvd., Port Washington, 516-944-9477, peperosso.com
Above: The vibrant penne arrabiatta at Pepe Rosso 24 in Port Washington
Tags: Port Washington , Italian cuisine , pizza
