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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Open in Glen Cove: Cedar Creek American Bar & Grill

Based on a very early visit, Cedar Creek looks to be a welcome addition to the Glen Cove dining scene. The restaurant takes over the space previously occupied by Fino Rosso, Mask and Veranda, but the menu is resolutely non-Italian. Instead it draws on such of-the-moment trends as nose-to-tail (roasted beef marrow), heritage breeds (Duroc pork schnitzel), locavore (North Fork green salad) and Asian Fusion (tuna tartar). Well, there is a shrimp scampi over housemade linguine but c’mon, this is Glen Cove after all.

On Friday night we enjoyed extremely obliging service in the largest of the three comfortable dining areas. Among the dishes we liked were genteel profiteroles, split and filled with ham and cheese and tarragon, fat fried oysters topped with thick-cut coleslaw, and a flavorful barley risotto. These were the handiwork of chef Richard Soriano, graduate of Culinary Institute of America and Manhattan’s Park Avenue Café as well as opening chef at Nonnina in West Islip, where he received three stars from Newsday's Peter Gianotti.

Cedar Creek is owned by Richard Cutler, whose two Mim’s (in Syosset and Roslyn Heights) generally display less culinary ambition than this new venture. Dinner prices are just about reasonable, with almost everything but the steaks coming in under $20.

Even more reasonable are the daily “blue-plate specials” -- Sunday is Southern fried chicken ($15); Monday, meatless (price varies); Tuesday, “massive” chicken Parm ($13); Wednesday, lasagna ($13); Thursday, classic turkey “TV Dinner” ($14); Friday, mussels and fries ($14); Saturday, Hungarian goulash with egg noodles ($17).

Cedar Creek American Bar & Grill is at 75 Cedar Swamp Rd., Glen Cove, 516-656-5656.

Tags: Cedar Creek , Glen Cove , Richard Soriano , Mim's

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