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Long Island restaurants: New reviews

Bluefin tuna sushi is marvelous at at Be-Ju

Bluefin tuna sushi is marvelous at at Be-Ju Sashimi & Sake Bar in Melville. (Jan. 11, 2014) (Credit: Yana Paskova)

In this week’s Newsday, Peter Gianotti awards four stars to Be-Ju, the “serene, pristine” sushi bar inside Tom Schaudel’s “buoyant, brassy” Jewel in Melville. At the “restaurant-within-a-restaurant,” he writes, chefs Shigeki Uchiyama and Hiroki Tanii offer “some of the best uncooked fish on Long Island.”

Schaudel, one of Long Island’s most successful chef-restaurateurs, has opened dozens of restaurants over the last three decades—Panama Hatties in Huntington, 107 Forest Avenue in Locust Valley, Coolfish in Syosset, Tease in Roslyn, Jedediah Hawkins House in Jamesport and A Mano in Mattituck among them. This is the first time one of his kitchens has earned four stars.

Joan Reminick visits Sal’s Ristorante, which takes over the Smithtown location of DiMaggio’s. “On wintry nights,” she writes, ‘the place has a certain radiance, its butternut squash-colored walls hung with resolutely cheerful art.” Among the menu’s highlights are the addictive focaccia pillow and the Napolitana pizzetta.

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