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Left Coast Kitchen: Exuberant in Merrick

At Left Coast Kitchen in Merrick, a lobster

Photo credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

Left Coast Kitchen & Cocktails is so assured, so comfortable in its skin, that it’s hard not to have a great time here. Certainly this is one of the South Shore’s hippest spots, with an open kitchen, lots of old-timey decorative accents and servers outfitted in the retro-lumberjack style of so many of-the-moment Brooklyn boites.

We started with fried oysters, good if not improved by their...

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