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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

La Bussola: Old school in Glen Cove saves the day

Dining room of La Bussola in Glen Cove.

Photo credit: Newsday Marjorie Robins

I'm always a bit exasperated when I make plans to go out to dinner with the older Italians in our family. They will only eat Italian food at Italian restaurants. And not tapas-Italian, or fusion-Italian or any other newfangled Italian.

The dinner has to follow a specific protocol: First, an antipasto, like fried calamari; then a primo, perhaps an orecchiette with broccoli rabe, followed by...

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