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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

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Islip Terrace: Good food at Brookwoods

Photo credit: Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times

Sunrise Highway, which has stretches that qualify as Desolation Row for restaurants, finds a winner with Brookwoods in Islip Terrace.

Chef John Scunziano's American-continental eatery offers savory gumbo and New England-style clam chowder, plus a fibrous and fine porterhouse steak and a diverting finale, "cannoli parfait," which is exactly that.

 The menu is loaded with...

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