The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene
Hudsons on the Nautical Mile, Freeport
“Long Island’s most seafood restaurants,” is a boast that Freeport’s Nautical Mile can credibly make. Long Island’s best seafood restaurants is another matter. Over the weekend I dined at Hudsons on the Mile, the post-Sandy makeover of Hudson & McCoy Fish House. I’m afraid that it does not appreciably raise the culinary bar.
There were no whole lobsters on the menu so we went with two lobster-based appetizers, lobster tacos ($14) and a lobster roll $16). Both were made with the same finely chopped, mostly-claw meat. For the tacos, it was stuffed into three hard taco shells and topped with some loose guacamole and wan pico de gallo. For the rolls, it was stuffed into two cold, borderline stale buns. Chef: you gotta butter-toast the buns! Accompanying the lobster rolls was a little bucket of cold French fries.
We also split a “BLT chopped salad” ($10) which was nothing more than pieces of iceberg lettuce festooned with diced tomatoes and onions and cold bacon bits. The kitchen had not bothered to dress the salad; the blue cheese dressing came on the side.
When our mains showed up, our appetizers were still on the table, and in the clearing confusion, all my silverware was taken. It took asking three servers before I got a fork and was able to assay my seafood Fra Diavolo, about a half pound of overcooked linguine topped with tasty mussels, tasteless lobster, rubbery scallops, overcooked shrimp and two clams that never opened.
My friend had a big hunk of Chilean sea bass, a special; the fish was both burned on top, and garnished with an orchid.
Coffee was cold.
For what it's worth, Hudsons is certainly one of the more attractive restaurants on the Mile. Like its earlier incarnation, it's classic oyster bar all the way.
Hudsons on the Mile is at 340 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport, 516-442-5569, hudsononthemile.com