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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

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My good fortune at Fortune Wheel in Levittown

Peanut wontons (pork wontons in a spicy peanut

Peanut wontons (pork wontons in a spicy peanut sauce) are a special at Fortune Wheel in Levittown. (Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Fortune Wheel has been serving some of Long Island’s best Chinese food since 1993 — in one of Long Island’s least prepossessing locations. When it opened in the Nassau Mall in Levittown, it was sandwiched between Pathmark and Rickel Home Center. Twenty-one years later, those stores have given way to Best Buy and BJ’s Wholesale Club. Fortune Wheel endures.

This is a restaurant favored by Chinese customers who, in turn, demand quality and authenticity from the kitchen. I was wary of a daily special, “peanut wontons,” but am very glad I took a chance. These were delicate, pork-filled wontons served in an addictive sauce of peanut butter and hot-pepper oil (similar to what you find on dan-dan noodles) and topped with slivered scallions. Wow.

Next up: a sizzling-hot ceramic casserole of bone-in chicken chunks, mushrooms and sweet Chinese sausage. Another winner.

It’s not clear to me why I don’t go to Fortune Wheel once a week.

Fortune Wheel is at 3601 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown, 516-579-4700.

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