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Cuzco Peru in Lynbrook offers sophisticated Latin American cuisine

The grilled octopus at Cuzco Peru in Lynbrook.

The grilled octopus at Cuzco Peru in Lynbrook. (September 2013) (Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

A recent dinner at the new Cuzco Peru in Lynbrook showed off the bold global flavors of this sophisticated Latin American cuisine.

For starters, grilled octopus ($9.95) was beautifully plated, savory and tender. Another attractive appetizer was tamalitos ($7), a corn husk stuffed with corn kernels, pork, onion and tomato.

Peruvian rotisserie chicken, usually a forte of Peruvian restaurants, was all it should have been — well-burnished and infused with the flavor of its marinade. We got it whole ($12), but it’s also available in various combinations, including family-sized combos ($20 to $28) that feed at least four. The Peruvian version of Chinese fried rice, arroz chaufa, ordered with both chicken and beef ($14), might have been an all-around knockout had not both meats been dry and overcooked. To drink with all: red sangria ($18 half liter), sweet and fruit-filled.

Cuzco Peru is at 323 Merrick Rd., Lynbrook, 516-599-4727.

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