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Bareburger, Great Neck: First bites

Bareburger's big blue bacon burger. (June 6, 2013)

Bareburger's big blue bacon burger. (June 6, 2013) (Credit: Newsday / Marjorie Robins)

Beef, bison or boar? That's only one of the myriad choices you'll have to make after a perky server takes you through the complicated menu at the newly opened Bareburger in Great Neck.

Unlike most burger chains, this small New York City-based franchise, known for its ''free-range, pasture raised, humanely raised, antibiotic-, gluten- and hormone- free" meats, offers table service and serves beer and wine.

At a recent dinner, I really went for a trio of bison sliders ($12.50) featuring rare, juicy patties topped with colby cheese, garlic dill pickles, apple grilled onions and a mayonnaise-based “special sauce.” 

On the other hand, there wasn’t much flavor in my thick grilled beef burger (alternatives ranged from turkey to boar to elk and beyond) with a bright “California” topping of Cheddar, avocado, watercress, tomatoes and red onions ($11.95). I couldn’t help but wonder whether the sustainably raised beef was a bit too lean or whether someone forget to season it before grilling.  Perhaps both.

Assertive flavors vied for predominance in an Asian salad featuring broccoli slaw, watercress, pickled mango, dried edamame, carrots and cucumber in a peanut sesame ginger dressing. ($6.25 small; $11.45 entree). And there was a very good organic chocolate thick shake laced with bits of chocolate ($4.95 12-ounce; $6.95 16-ounce).

The accent color at the new Bareburger in Great Neck is green — most appropriate, since sustainability also rules the decor. Look up and you'll see beautiful arched ceilings made from recycled barns; tables are fashioned of wood from storm-downed trees and floors of bamboo.

Bareburger is at 32 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-441-5711, bareburger.com.

Tags: Burgers , Great Neck