Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

All-Star chef leaves Speonk gastropub

Executive chef Lia Fallon in the dining room

(Credit: Doug Young)

Lia Fallon, a Newsday’s 2014 All-Star chef and former chef at Amarelle in Wading River, Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport and The Riverhead Project, is no longer cooking at the 4-month-old Brewology in Speonk, whose menu she created.

According to Brewology partner Roger Bencosme, Fallon’s sous chef, Chris Zullo, has been promoted and is now running the kitchen. For now the menu is unchanged;...

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Cafe Testarossa in Syosset: First bites

Meatball sliders are served at Cafe Testarossa in

(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

Actually, this should be more like the 101st bite.

I first visited Cafe Testarossa in 1988. It was very good. And, over the years, the restaurant named for the great marque of Maranello has zoomed along. There have been some hints of  Emilia-Romagna, but Billy Sansone's establishment usually  revved up in its own way.

Now, it's at full throttle, with Italian and New American...

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Two new Tex-Mex eateries debut in Wading River

Avo Mexican Grill is one of the new

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

Two new Tex-Mex places are slinging salsa and tacos in Wading River. Let the guacamole wars begin.

There’s Avo Mexican Grill, a pretty little counter-serve eatery named for the versatile avocado, and whose interior, appropriately, is painted a lovely shade of green. The place is owned by two couples, Tara and Steve Dietz and Larissa and Joe Goller.

According to Joe Goller, the repertoire...

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Long Island Restaurants: New reviews

Swordfish on a stick is served at Grillmark

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)

This week, Joan Reminick reviews Grillmark in Albertson, “that rare restaurant you can feel good about frequenting more than once a week — or even once a day. Surroundings are sleek, prices moderate. The relatively healthy menu, devoted to Mediterranean-style fare, centers around clean, simple grilled “sticks” — marinated and skewered grilled poultry, seafood and meat.”

Peter M. Gianotti visits...

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Open in Oceanside: EAT Gastropub

EAT Gastropub takes over the Oceanside location that

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

“EAT safe and use condiments!” is the motto of EAT Gastropub, which opened  this week in Oceanside.

Gastronomic safety is supposedly conferred by the restaurant’s careful sourcing of ingredients — house-ground, grass-fed Piedmontese beef in the burgers; greens and herbs grown in the on-premises greenhouse. As for condiments, the menu makes lavish use of them: sun-dried tomato aioli on...

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Closed in Huntington: The Shack

The Shack in Huntington, with a motto of

(Credit: Bruce Gilbert)

The Shack, situated on Gerard Street in downtown Huntington, has closed. The seafood-centric restaurant was the table-service offshoot of the The Shack in Centerport, a seasonal outdoor counter-serve spot for clam rolls, burgers and hot dogs.

The Huntington restaurant garnered one-and-a-half stars in a review in March of this year, with praise for such items as its briny whole baked clams...

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Closed in Wantagh: Cherrywood Pizzeria & Restaurant

Cherrywood Pizzeria & Restaurant on April 24, 2009.

(Credit: Daniel Goodrich)

Cherrywood Pizzeria & Restaurant, a presence in Wantagh for the past 50 years, has closed, becoming part of local history.

The capacious strip mall eatery, which relocated several years ago from its original spot in the Cherrywood Shopping Center, was known for its Neapolitan, grandma and Sicilian pies but also served some nontraditional pizzas, like mac ‘n cheese and eggplant rollatini....

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Open in Melville: The Refuge Food & Spirits

The Refuge Food & Spirits takes over the

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

In a restaurant climate of bewildering menus and ever-rising prices, the owners of The Refuge are hoping to provide just that — refuge. With crowd-pleasing, value-priced Italian-American and Latin dishes, and an eclectic vintage decor that is equal parts "Remember the Alamo" and "Come with me to the Casbah," the new restaurant on Route 110 in Melville, which opened this week, takes aim at that dining...

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brook23 in Lynbrook: First bites

Lobster salad sliders are served at brook23 in

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Gastropubs are pouring it on in Nassau and Suffolk, and brook23 bar + kitchen in Lynbrook is a sudsy, sporty addition to the show.

The casual spot has enough TVs tuned to sports to keep you up to date on any scores. You may be focused more on the food and beverages, which often are very good.

The kitchen sends out tasty slider-size lobster rolls and an especially flavorful "crispy double...

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Dinner at Oak Room Tavern in Sea Cliff

At Oak Room Tavern in Sea Cliff, the

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

On a Friday night, all of Sea Cliff seems to crowd into Oak Room Tavern, and for good reason: The nattily appointed little room pulses with conviviality and, starting at 9 p.m., live music.

In the kitchen, executive chef Shawn Patrick cooks with undeniable talent, though his tendency to overwork a dish often obscures his skill.

I was happy to see razor clams as a special appetizer, and...

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