Elmer Rubio: From dishwasher to all-star chef
GalleriesElmer Rubio: All-star chef
Behind the swinging door to the dining room, the language of the restaurant kitchen is Spanish. At most Long Island restaurants - be they Italian, French, New American or steak house - most of the cooking positions are held by immigrants from Mexico and Central America.
But with few exceptions, the position of executive chef is held by someone born either in the United States or in Europe.