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Del Fuego

429 N. Country Rd. St. James, NY 631-963-6900

Vintage and Southwest memorabilia and chalkboard menus line

(Credit: Doug Young)

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Critic rating: 2

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Type: Mexican, Tex-Mex Description:

Del Fuego, a casual Tex-Mex restaurant, has opened in St. James. It's the latest eatery, and something completely different, from the owners of Ruvo in Greenlawn and Port Jefferson and La Tavola in Sayville.

Owner Joseph DeNicola said that Del Fuego is emphasizing the fresh and the housemade on a menu that includes fajitas with filet mignon, rack of ribs, fish tacos, as well as burritos and quesadillas. The most expensive item is $23.

The new place seats about 40 diners. It's open every day.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday, Monday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Ambience: Good Service: Fair Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: wheelchair accessible.
Del Fuego restaurant in St. James serves a

Del Fuego restaurant in St. James serves a half-rack of dry-rubbed pork ribs prepared with lager barbecue sauce, red cabbage slaw and spiced pumpkin seeds. (Jan. 30, 2012) (Credit: Doug Young)

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Most of the time, Del Fuego is exactly the Tex-Mex restaurant that it should be: an attractively rustic cantina where culinary traditions are both respected and slyly tweaked. Witness the bigeye tuna seviche, chunks of raw fish "cooked" by its citrusy marinade, tossed with charred pineapple, pickled jalapeƱo and ginger chili oil. It's Latin, it's Asian, it's fruity, it's fiery, it works.

At the same time, I'm puzzled by the desultory "Fuego" salad with grilled chicken -- wilted field greens scantily strewn with mango, avocado and jicama plus overcooked hunks of poultry.

That Del Fuego is capable of better becomes clear with the first sip of rousing crimson chicken tortilla soup. Guacamole with fresh pico de gallo and salsa is soothing yet piquant. And a smoky depth infuses the dry-rubbed ribs topped with pumpkin seeds, plated with a red cabbage slaw. Food like this is why I've come.

I could be lured back by the thick, juicy Fuego burger topped with avocado, chipotle mayonnaise, bacon and melted Cheddar and Monterey Jack. A barbecue beef wrap with brisket, roasted corn, caramelized onion, greens and honey chipotle dressing comes together harmoniously. So, too, do surf-and-turf fajitas featuring shrimp and filet mignon.

But why is an entree of juicy, well-spiced adobo filet mignon served atop slippery dressed salad greens? Cutting the meat becomes quite awkward.

A trio of tacos is best ordered with soft corn tortillas instead of pasty flour ones. Tops among fillings is shredded beef brisket with poblano pepper. We order crabcakes, but they never get delivered. Service needs sharpening, for sure.

Not bad, a finale of flaky-crusted apple empanada with salted caramel ice cream. Better to order the chili-spiked Mexican chocolate ice cream solo instead of with heavy, deep-fried churros.

Other lures besides food: an interesting list of tequilas and beers, a busy bar and six TV screens for catching the game of choice.