Del Fuego

Most of the time, Del Fuego is exactly the Tex-Mex restaurant that it should be: an attractively rustic cantina where culinary traditions are both respected and slyly tweaked. Witness the bigeye tuna seviche, chunks of raw fish “cooked” by its citrusy marinade, tossed with charred pineapple, pickled jalapeño and ginger chili oil. It's Latin, it's Asian, it's fruity, it's fiery, it works. -- Joan Reminick