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Cozymels review

Originally published: October 16, 2012 5:55 PM
Updated: October 17, 2012 12:26 PM
By JOAN REMINICK  joan.reminick@newsday.com

Photo credit: Jeremy Bales | A Cozymels combination plate with three tacos -- a shrimp taco in a house-made flour tortilla, a pork taco in a soft corn tortilla and a guajillo chicken taco. (Oct. 2, 2012)

At the sprawling and colorful Westbury branch of this small Mexican chain, flour tortillas are made in-house, sauces prepared from scratch -- right down to the roasting of fresh chili peppers. No question, Cozymels aims for authenticity and quality. The place succeeds some days more than others.

One evening, the open kitchen is slow but ultimately comes across. House chicken soup, a full-flavored...