75 Woodbine Ave. Suite A Northport, NY 631-754-3256
It's a week before Thanksgiving at Copenhagen Bakery, and calm is about to give way to storm. Not that it's ever truly calm at Copenhagen, which bustles from 5:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. (4:30 p.m. on Sundays). Since Flemming and Stacé Hansen bought the bakery in 1998, it has become one of Northport's busiest hubs, with hot oatmeal for breakfast, homemade soups and wraps and sandwiches (on homemade bread) for lunch. A few months ago, a customer mentioned to Stacé that she'd like a hard-cooked egg for lunch. Now there's a basket of eggs in the sandwich case.
Stacé, raised in Freeport, met Danish-born Flemming when they were both living in California. While she handles sales and marketing, he supervises the production of a generally excellent array of cakes, cookies, pies and breads. And then there are the Danish.
In Denmark, Flemming says, flaky, round pastries with a sweet filling in the center are called wienerbrød -- Vienna bread -- and "in Denmark you don't find Danish filled with cheese." Copenhagen sells a full line of Danish / wienerbrød ($1.75), but Flemming prefers the more delicate cinnamon swirl (kanel snegl, $1.75), made of a loosely wound "rope" of pastry. There may be no more delicious item on Copenhagen's shelf than the kringle ($9.50), a larger and looser "snail," filled with raspberry or apricot and punctuated with nuts and raisins. Denser, icing-drizzled and composed of seven rings is the smør kager, or seven sisters ($8.50).
But now Flemming's focus will shift to those most American of pastries, pumpkin and apple pies. This Thanksgiving, Copenhagen plans to bake 2,000 of them. -- Erica Marcus (Newsday / Nov. 17, 2011)
Flemming and Stace Hansen have owned Copenhagen Bakery in Northport since 1998. (Nov. 4, 2011)