6800 Jericho Tpke. Syosset, NY 516-921-3250

Tom Schaudel, chef-owner of Coolfish in Syosset, in

(Credit: Newsday File)

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Critic rating: 3

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Type: New American, Seafood Special features: Business lunch, Lunch Price range: $$$ (Expensive) Description:

Buried in an office complex, deep-set off Jericho Turnpike, this flashy-but-windowless seafood spot draws you in.

Hours: Dinner every day. Lunch, Monday to Friday. Ambience: Excellent Service: Excellent Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: Yes
A look at the dining area at CoolFish

A look at the dining area at CoolFish in Syosset. (Credit: Newsday File)


While Tom Schaudel orchestrates


, chef Lenny Campanelli adroitly captains Schaudel's flagship restaurant,


, in Syosset. CoolFish earned a three-star rating in 2000, when the concept and the courses were refreshing and new. It's now a very reliable spot for lunch and dinner. The look definitely hasn't changed. CoolFish manages to thrive in a windowless space in the North Shore Atrium office building. Site aside, you'll enjoy Campanelli's food, which hews to the contemporary approach Schaudel has championed since his big splash a century ago at the long-departed Downtown Grille in Montauk. Flatbreads remain good when shared over drinks while you go through the menu. Try the one with Taleggio. Then: cornmeal-crusted fried oysters, crunchy and sweet, atop spicy avocado. And Campanelli prepares an excellent, cinnamon-chipotle-marinated, double-cut pork chop with sweet potatoes. An upside-down apple tart that's a tasty cousin of tarte Tatin has maintained its appeal. Go for the Schaudel staple, the "chocolate bag" -- a stylized sundae, with dark chocolate molded into the slightly crinkly, rectangular shape of a bag, filled with vanilla ice cream, bananas, caramel and more.