At The Orient in Bethpage, garlic stems are stir fried with dried tofu. (Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)
Finding very good Chinese cuisine on Long Island requires the persistence and nosiness of Jake Gittes. There are a lot of trails leading nowhere except to local takeout. But here are three restaurants definitely worth the pursuit.
THE ORIENT, 623 Hicksville Rd., Bethpage; 516-822-1010
Service can be erratic, even chaotic. But if you know what you want and ask enough questions, it can...
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