Centro Cucina restaurant in Greenvale is more than (Credit: Barbara Alper)

Centro Cucina restaurant in Greenvale is more than just a strip-mall spot for pizzas, pastas and panini. The brick oven is very active here, but so is the grill. (Oct. 12, 2010)

Centro Cucina

Excellent pizza -- and seafood -- in Greenvale.

Centro Cucina restaurant in Greenvale is more than
(Credit: Barbara Alper)

Centro Cucina restaurant in Greenvale is more than just a strip-mall spot for pizzas, pastas and panini. The brick oven is very active here, but so is the grill. (Oct. 12, 2010)

Centro Cucina, at 43C Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale,
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Centro Cucina, at 43C Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale, is bustling in the evening and pretty busy during midday, too. (Oct. 30, 2010)

Centro Cucina is a casual, unpretentious cafe, decorated
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Centro Cucina is a casual, unpretentious cafe, decorated minimally but with attentive service. That ensures tables turn over on time and keeps most waits for seating short. (Oct. 30, 2010)

Lobsters rest on ice before they are cooked
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Lobsters rest on ice before they are cooked at Centro Cucina, which serves a first-rate lobster fra diavolo, tender and fired-up, atop spaghetti. (Oct. 30, 2010)

Patrons share fried calamari at Centro Cucina in
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Patrons share fried calamari at Centro Cucina in Greenvale. (Oct. 30, 2010)

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The fine, smoky grilled red snapper at Centro.
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

The fine, smoky grilled red snapper at Centro. (Oct. 30, 2010)

The rigatoni Siciliana, with eggplant, tomatoes, basil and
(Credit: Yana Paskova)

The rigatoni Siciliana, with eggplant, tomatoes, basil and ricotta salata, at Centro Cucina in Greenvale. (Oct. 30, 2010)

Customers lunch on pizzas at Centro Cucina in
(Credit: Barbara Alper)

Customers lunch on pizzas at Centro Cucina in Greenvale. (Oct. 12, 2010)

Centro Cucina in Greenvale offers salads along with
(Credit: Barbara Alper)

Centro Cucina in Greenvale offers salads along with pizza, pasta, sandwiches and seafood. (Oct. 12, 2010)

Centro Cucina's pizzas draw praise. Among the favorites
(Credit: Barbara Alper)

Centro Cucina's pizzas draw praise. Among the favorites is this creamy four-cheese number, with Gorgonzola, fontina, mozzarella and Pecorino Romano. (Oct. 12, 2010)

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The campagnola (country-style) pizza at Centro Cucina in
(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

The campagnola (country-style) pizza at Centro Cucina in Greenvale. (Aug. 10, 2010)