Bistros on Long Island: 3 picks

First and South offers outdoor dining on its

First and South offers outdoor dining on its porch and patio. (June 21, 2012) (Credit: Doug Young)

The concept of the bistro has been pushed and pulled so much that the term has multiple meanings around here. Maybe it's just a cozy, comfortable, casual spot with savory food. Here are three nominees.

FIRST AND SOUTH, Greenport

There's plenty to enjoy, starting with the easygoing style. The newcomer is worth visiting for brunch, happy hour and/or dinner. Francophiles will enjoy the salt-cod brandade; pre-Olympic appetites, bangers and mash; anyone, the burger with fries and a root-beer float. Cash only.

GEORGE MARTIN, Rockville Centre

Now dubbed "the Original," this is the first eatery in the George Martin group. It's still the place to go for herb-roasted chicken, sesame tuna, "rustic" meatballs, pork jaeger schnitzel, fish tacos, Caesar salad, filet mignon sliders and a burger with blue cheese.

ROWDY HALL, East Hampton

This Hamptons' mainstay combines bistro and pub, and is very good both ways. Recommended: Roquefort-walnut salad, escargots, croques monsieur and madame, the banh mi sandwich, Cobb salad, pan-roasted Duroc pork chop, steak frites, steamed mussels and fries, chili, and, of course, the Rowdy burger.

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