Best steaks on Long Island

21 Main $$$ | Steak 21 Montauk Highway West Sayville Orderly and unpretentious, 21 Main serves an excellent T-bone steak for two, a 40-oz. slab with an au poivre bite and Gorgonzola cheese for just enough excess. It's grand. Also enjoyable in the conservatively appointed dining room are a heroic bone-in ribeye, weighing in at 32 ounces; a juicy sirloin; sliced hanger steak with sauteed onions and mushrooms; and a noteworthy filet mignon with a garlic-herb demi-glace.

Blackstone Steakhouse $$$$ | Steak, American, Seafood, Japanese, Sushi 10 Pinelawn Rd. Melville In a stone-and-wood style space suggesting what might happen if Frank Lloyd Wright and Disney partnered to produce a compact national park lodge, Blackstone offers up first-class cuts of beef: a juicy rib steak, hefty porterhouse and fibrous, salt-edged sirloin. The steaks are offered with five sauces, including a neoclassic bearnaise.

Bryant & Cooper $$$$ | American, Steak 2 Middle Neck Rd. Roslyn Bryant & Cooper ranks among the top all-around Long Island steakhouses, straightforward and recommended for porterhouse and sirloin, filet mignon and ribeye. Also: very good shellfish, vegetables and a linguine with white clam sauce to make tricolor-waving competitors jealous.

Burton & Doyle $$$ | Steak, Restaurant, Seafood 661 Northern Blvd. Great Neck A distinctive, luxe spot, slide into one of their comfortable, rounded booths and dig into a carnivore's favorite: the porterhouse (for one or two), a juicy, crusty slab of beef. The T-bone for one gives you an only slightly smaller, full-flavored variation on the theme, and the filet mignon is very thick and very good.

The Capital Grille $$$$ | Chain restaurants, Steak, Seafood 630 Old Country Rd. Garden City The steaks at this upscale, national chain are dependably very good. Shallot butter delivers the shine to an excellent, bone-in, Kona coffee-crusted, dry-aged sirloin; very tender, sliced filet mignon benefits from a bed of cipollini onions and wild mushrooms.

Frank's Steaks (Jericho) $$$ | American, Steak 4 Jericho Tpke. Jericho An enjoyable restaurant for well-prepared, unadorned American food, the emphasis is on juicy beef. With a setting matching the simplicity of the menu, the best options are the porterhouse steak for two, T-bone for one, bone-in strip steak and Romanian skirt steak.

Frank's Steaks (Rockville Centre) $$$ | Steak 54 Lincoln Ave. Rockville Centre The restaurant has built a reputation of sorts for its marinated Romanian skirt steak, which is juicy and sweet. Better are the porterhouse for two, the peppercorn-crusted ribeye and the garlicky ribeye. There's husky prime rib too,

George Martin's Strip Steak $$$ | American, Steak 60 River Rd. Great River In its first Suffolk foray, the George Martin Group has established a prime site. The juicy porterhouse steak for two and the lush filet mignon lead the steaks.

Insignia $$$$ | American, Steak, Sushi 610 Nesconset Highway, Smithtown For restaurateur-as-impresario Anthony Scotto, this brassy palace of protein completes a trifecta. (He also owns Rare650 in Syosset and Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville.) A dry-aged Kansas City strip steak stands out, despite its gilding of truffled foie-gras butter. Also notable are the porterhouse for two or more; fist-size cut of filet mignon; Wagyu steaks, with more marbling than a Carrara quarry; and the 16-ounce Australian ribeye, for $89.