Athens Grill

John Mantzopoulos opened Athens Grill in 2005 and has been slowly shifting the focus away from souvlaki and mass-market gryros and toward the simple, clear flavors of his native Greece as well as the Mediterranean cuisines of Italy, France, Spain and North Africa. He has a passion for seafood, and serves only wild-caught fish, much of which he picks up himself, at Southold Fish Market, on his way to work. On a recent fish, fresh sardines were, predictably, excellent, as was a very correct Greek country salad, grilled lamb chops and moussaka.