Amicale in Huntington Station

Panama Hatties, a landmark at this address, turned off the burners earlier this year and has been overhauled, expanded and handsomely remade. The new restaurant carefully balances the traditional and the contemporary, in looks and on the plate. The result is one of the top spots in a very competitive year. Credit George Echeverria, co-owner and chef. He made Soigné into a little jewel box. Amicale is more like the treasure chest: large, ambitious, aimed at a broader audience. It's a restaurant, a wine-and-martini bar, a caterer, a party in waiting.